Become a Member: JOIN SFPMA TODAY   LogIn / Register: LOGIN/REGISTER

SFPMA Industry Articles | news, legal updates, events & education! 

Find Blog Articles for Florida’s Condo, HOA and the Management Industry. 

Premier Fire Alarm and Integration Systems, We assist you in ensuring that your fire alarm system complies with national fire codes and Florida building codes.

Premier Fire Alarm and Integration Systems, We assist you in ensuring that your fire alarm system complies with national fire codes and Florida building codes.

  • Posted: Mar 22, 2021
  • By:
  • Comments: Comments Off on Premier Fire Alarm and Integration Systems, We assist you in ensuring that your fire alarm system complies with national fire codes and Florida building codes.

Premier Fire Alarms & Integration Systems, Installation Division Inc. is dedicated to providing the most reliable systems and service in the alarm industry. Helping protect the lives and property of our customers is a responsibility we embrace and never take lightly. In every endeavor, we strive to satisfy our customers by meeting and exceeding their expectations.

Fire Alarm Repair and Maintenance   *   Fire Alarm Service Agreement & Contracts   *   Fire Alarm Service Monitoring

Call now for free consultation

954-404-7137

 

Tags: , , ,
Painting or Coating?  Basic considerations for long term durability. – by William Pyznar / The Falcon Group

Painting or Coating? Basic considerations for long term durability. – by William Pyznar / The Falcon Group

  • Posted: Jul 23, 2020
  • By:
  • Comments: Comments Off on Painting or Coating? Basic considerations for long term durability. – by William Pyznar / The Falcon Group

Painting or Coating? Basic considerations for long term durability.

by William Pyznar / The Falcon Group

 

“Painting” your building sounds simple enough.  Most would anticipate the most important decision to be selecting which color to paint it.  However, a lot of chemistry and physics will play an important role in how that “paint” performs and how long it will be sticking to your building, protecting it and looking good.

For starters, lets differentiate between “paint” and “coating”.  All coatings are paints, but not all paints are coatings.   Generally speaking, paint is used for aesthetics, and coatings are used for performance.  Coatings are paints that serve a purpose beyond just the aesthetic color and finish.  In addition to color and texture, coatings can provide waterproofing, elasticity, breathability, dirt shedding and corrosion prevention properties.  With these additional properties typically comes added cost.  As such, it is important to make sure you are selecting the correct coating with proper preparation and application techniques to get the best long-lasting performance and return on your investment.

Most coating failures can be attributed one of three issues:

  • Improper selection of material
  • Improper preparation of the substrate
  • Improper application.

Before selecting a coating material and process, first consider the condition of the existing conditions and how the existing coating is performing and the condition of the existing substrate. Also consider what characteristics and results you are looking to achieve. Looking a little deeper into each of the causes of failure.  If there is an existing coating and the existing coating has failed, it is crucial to understand why before investing in recoating.   If the existing coating is performing, but you are looking to recoat for aesthetics, waterproofing or other performance characteristics, it is also imperative to understand the existing coating to be able to select the proper material, preparation and application of the new coating.

 

Selecting the new Coating:  Selecting the new coating will be governed by desired performance characteristics and chemistry.   You need to determine which performance characteristics you need such as breathability, elasticity, waterproofing, corrosion resistance and dirt shedding.  You then need to consider what materials you are going over.  The new coating should be compatible with the existing surface chemically and physically.

For example, topcoats should generally be of the same generic type of curing mechanism as undercoats and you don’t want to apply a rigid coating over a flexible base.  If it is anticipated that moisture escaping the concrete or wood substrate is a concern you may want to select a breathable material.  If crack bridging and movement is a concern, you may want to select an elastic material.  If existing layers of paint exist, you don’t want to keep applying layers of coatings so as to reduce the elasticity of the overall coating thickness.  Latexes are generally less effected by moisture then oil-based coatings.  Oil based coatings are not recommended for direct application on galvanized surfaces because the alkalinity on the galvanized surface will degrade the oil binder causing peeling.

 

Surface Preparation:  Surface preparation is the single most important factor in determining coating durability.  Proper preparation removes surface contaminants such as dirt, mildew chalking, salts and rust which can interfere with adhesion of the new coating.   Proper preparation will also produce a surface profile that will promote good adhesion.  There are varying surface preparation processes that are recommended, which vary with the surface such as existing coating, steel, wood or concrete and the condition of the surface such peeling or chalking coatings, fresh or old concrete, painted or bare wood, oiled or rusting steel, etc.   There are dozens of preparation methods from blasting and sanding, washing with soap, chemicals or acid to making repairs of the surface itself.  The selected methods are a function of the materials being used, the existing conditions and the environment.

 

Application:  It is important to apply coatings immediately after preparation so as to avoid contamination of the surface.  The grace period from preparation to coating will vary greatly with material and environment.   For example, freshly blasted steel in a marine environment will start to form a corrosive film almost immediately.  Whereas bare wood can be exposed to sunlight for up to two weeks before the sunlight causes photo-degradation of the wood, which must be sanded off to avoid adhesion issues.

Other considerations during the application process include access, weather conditions, including wind, precipitation, temperature and humidity, dust (natural or construction related), and the actual application methods such as brush, roller or spray.  Application method will be governed by the type of material and the type and condition of the substrate, as well as the environmental conditions.  It is important to achieve the specific millage in the  application and the specific dry film thickness.

In summary, once you have selected a color scheme for your project, it is important to understand there is an extensive amount of legwork to fully understand what and how coatings should be applied to your building to get the most out of your investment and to avoid costly defects.  A professional consultant with expertise in repairs and coatings can help guide this process and perform some simple field tests to identify the existing material type, moisture concerns and visible conditions to come up with the best long term specification for your investment.

WJP

The Falcon Group | Engineers, Architects & Reserve Specialists

www.falconengineering.com 

Miami ph: 305.663.1970 x509  West Palm Beach ph: 561.290.0504 

 

 

Tags: ,
Behind The Scenes Of Your Commercial Roof Anatomy with emergency roof repair. by PSI Roofing

Behind The Scenes Of Your Commercial Roof Anatomy with emergency roof repair. by PSI Roofing

  • Posted: Jul 20, 2020
  • By:
  • Comments: Comments Off on Behind The Scenes Of Your Commercial Roof Anatomy with emergency roof repair. by PSI Roofing

Behind The Scenes Of Your Commercial Roof Anatomy with emergency roof repair.

by PSI Roofing

We are in the Rainy Season in Florida, Water is not your Roofs Friend!

If your commercial property sustains enough damage in a short enough time to cause you to consider shuttering the doors, you have an emergency repair. This could mean:

  • Storm damage
  • A dangerous water leak
  • A problem that puts expensive inventory and equipment at risk

Bear in mind that an emergency roof repair may not be a finished job. Tarping and other temporary measures can stave off further damage. Your local commercial roofer will return with a full crew at a later date to complete a thorough repair. This could mean two invoices, or it could open an insurance claim that stretches across weeks.

If you knew about a problem last week and chose not to call for help, you already know the problem is not an emergency. And yet, are you a roofing expert? That small leak may be the first sign of more extensive failure, which brings us to our second idea.

Checklist

Some factors making a roof repair an emergency, other than seeing intense damage in a short time, include:

  • Widespread damage, as from winds or heavy rain
  • A high volume of water infiltration
  • Multiple leaks
  • Sudden appearance of mold or smell of mildew

If In Doubt

If you are unsure a roof problem is an emergency or just a routine repair, call your contractor. Let your roofer make the decision. That small leak that is only dampening insulation under the single-ply membrane could develop into widespread mold. It could rot wooden roof deck members. It could find its way inside the building envelope and drip on inventory or office equipment.

 

 

Once you know a bit about commercial roof anatomy, you will realize you cannot wait when your flat roof “patient” is flatlining. You need to dispatch a commercial roofing partner to your roof, stat. 

Commercial Roof Anatomy

No two low-slope (flat) commercial roofs are exactly identical. Their surfaces can be finished in several ways:

  • Modified Bitumen (Mod-Bit) and Built-Up Roofing (BUR) — A tried-and true multi-ply system with granulated finishes applied hot or cold
  • TPO — Rubber laminated systems
  • PVC — PVC scrim systems
  • Liquid-applied membrane and coatings — Acrylic, urethane, silicone

Three other types of commercial roofing are available for steep-slope roofs:

  • Shingles
  • Metal Roofs, including flat seam and standing seam
  • Tiles

Basic roof structures are similar, and the vast majority of Florida commercial roofs are low-slope. Setting aside the steep-slope options, if we start at the top and dig down, we usually find:

  • The exposed roofing surface (one of the materials mentioned above)
  • Insulation (usually rigid sheets specially shaped to give the pitch)
  • Vapor Barrier (prevents moisture moving into and out of the building envelope)
  • Underlayment (additional waterproofing)
  • Roof Deck (steel, wood, concrete, plywood, oriented-strand board)
  • Steel or Wood Joists

Every layer represents centuries of trial-and-error improvements in building low-slope roofs.

Today we can install roofs that take Florida’s punishing weather, save energy costs, and last for decades with proper, professional maintenance.

Exposed Roofing Surface

The wide array of choices in surfacing your commercial roof makes close communication with your roofer essential. Your decision on a replacement roof depends on a lot of factors your roofer can explain:

  • Age of your existing roof
  • Ease of access
  • Available budget
  • Expected life span of the replacement
  • Scheduling
  • Noise and odor concerns

The best time to begin contemplating a reroof is long before your roof needs replacement. Enlist your commercial roofer for routine maintenance so the crews become familiar with your commercial roof anatomy. When you need to pick between TPO, BUR, or PVC, you can make the decision quickly and economically.

Every material has its pros and cons. Mod-Bit and BUR are among the oldest and least expensive but typically call for more roof maintenance and upkeep than TPO and PVC. PVC is a tough, long-lasting material that may be pricier than other choices at installation.

Liquid waterproofing coatings can extend the life of most roofs, but the coatings need to be compatible with the existing surface.

Your best advisor on a roofing surface — the skin of your commercial roof anatomy — is your local roofer.

Insulation

Large sheets of rigid board insulation form the layer that helps determine your roof’s slope and energy efficiency. Roof decks are built completely flat, but the shaped insulation provides adequate drainage to internal drains and parapet scuppers.

With deteriorating insulation, you will be ponding, slow drainage, and water infiltration.

Your commercial roofer specializes in dealing with this layer of commercial roof anatomy and can correct any compression or ponding issues before reroofing with the surface layer.

Vapor Barrier

As the American Institute of Architects (AIA) explains, most vapor barriers on commercial buildings are Class 1 vapor retarders. Vapor retarders slow the movement of both air and moisture into and out of your building.

This special layer of commercial roof anatomy saves money on energy costs, keeps the interior comfortable, and slows the rusting of steel joists and decking.

Underlayment

Underlayment can be synthetic or organic, but its main purpose is to inhibit moisture from reaching the roof deck. It is usually rolled out and can be either self-adhered chemically or physically attached with fasteners.

Roof Deck

Without the roof deck spanning the open spaces over the joists of your building, no roof could exist. A substantial, solid and structurally sound roof deck is essential. This layer of commercial roof anatomy forms the foundation for all the sheet and rolled goods applied atop it. It can be corrugated steel plates, poured concrete, wood timbers, plywood, or oriented-strand board (OSB).

If rust or rot infects your roof deck, you need your commercial roofer’s help immediately. Florida’s strong winds and heavy rains will punch holes right through a weak roof deck.

Steel or Wood Joists

Spanning the walls of your commercial building are the steel joists or, in some cases, wood beams or joists that hold up the roof and keep walls secure. Hurricane codes call for strong ties between walls and roofs, and those ties focus on these joists. Think of these joists as the skeleton holding your building together. Let your commercial roofer help you become familiar with your building’s commercial roof anatomy. Routine maintenance and roof repairs will pay off with cost-efficient, fast reroofing when the time is right. Neglecting a commercial roof could cost you your business. We have the prescription. Contact us at PSI Roofing today to keep your flat roof in good health.

 

Tags: , ,
Lake Management and Hurricane Season, by AllState Resource Management

Lake Management and Hurricane Season, by AllState Resource Management

  • Posted: Jul 16, 2020
  • By:
  • Comments: Comments Off on Lake Management and Hurricane Season, by AllState Resource Management

Lake Management and Hurricane Season

by AllState Resource Management

Many South Florida homeowners are not aware of the critical role their community lakes play in managing stormwater and mitigating local area flooding. With the start of this year’s hurricane season around the corner, now is the time to make sure that our lakes and waterways are ready to deal with whatever nature throws at us. The problem of flooding is a real issue here because our homes are built on relatively flat, low-lying ground. The thin layer of soil under our feet can become saturated quickly, and sits on a cap of coral rock that only allows for a slow flow of water down to the aquifers below. This, combined with the possibility of large amounts of precipitation in short periods of time creates conditions for major flooding in our urban areas.
When developers create residential communities and commercial areas, they need to take into account how much water needs to be stored or moved in order to prevent the project from flooding during major rain events. Through careful planning and design, they route stormwater away from our homes and into a system of lakes and canals. The size and number of lakes in our communities are a result of those calculations. Lakes are dug to create a storage area for water runoff from storms. The fill dug from the lakes is then used to raise the elevation of the homes around them.
Using a system of drains and pipes the water is directed from the developed areas down into the lakes. Some community lakes use weirs or culverts to connect them to the municipal canal system. This allows them to move excess water off the property once they reach a certain level. The system works well but requires regular maintenance in order to ensure that it works properly when needed. Scheduled inspections of storm drains and weirs is important to keep the water moving off our streets and properties efficiently.
These structures accumulate silt and debris, and will occasionally need to be cleaned out. The lakes themselves also need to be regularly inspected and maintained
Even though they are primarily man-made storm water basins, they do evolve and become living ecosystems like naturally occurring waterbodies. Aquatic vegetation begins to grow in all lakes eventually, and much like our lawns, require regular attention in order to avoid become overgrown. Exotic species such as hydrilla, hygrophila, and rotala grow quickly and can spread throughout acres of lake in a matter of months or less. Such infestations are not only unsightly, but all those weeds are filling up the lake and taking up space meant to hold stormwater runoff.
Floating weeds such as water lettuce and water hyacinth can rapidly cover a lake surface, clogging and even damaging weirs and other outflows. Excessive growth of vegetation near culverts and drain pipes can slow the flow of stormwater both into and out of the lake, causing backups of the system. The longer these plants are left to grow unmanaged, the harder the problem is to get under control and the longer it will take. Large scale infestations need to be treated in stages with regulated wait times between treatments. This is done in order to not deplete the dissolved oxygen in the whole lake. The other problem with established infestations is that the plants have had time to mature and grow extensive roots systems. These root systems allow the plants to re-grow quickly after initial treatments and quite frequently require multiple follow up treatments to bring under control. Even once treated, the herbicides take time to work and the plants take time to decompose and settle to the bottom. Unfortunately, tropical storm events do not wait until conditions are best suited to deal with the results.
The best way to make sure your community is protected is to be proactive and maintain your system regularly. Regular scheduled maintenance ensures that aquatic vegetation is kept at levels that don’t compromise your stormwater system and can potentially avoid costly repairs to its components.
Hurricane season corresponds with the time of year when these plants grow and spread the fastest due to the long, sunny days. We have learned that being prepared for hurricane season means taking precautions before the storm arrives. That wisdom should also definitely apply to
our first line of defense against flood damage in our communities.
Thank You to Colleen Sullivan for this Article.
Author: Stephen Montgomery / Senior Biologist
Allstate Resource Management   Members of SFPMA
– Over 25 years of experience in maintaining the health of lakes, ponds, wetlands, and stormwater systems. We have continued since our inception to be the leader in resource management. Our services include lake management, wetland management, stormwater inspections and maintenance, erosion control, fish stocking, native plantings, debris removal, water quality, aquatic pest control, and upland management.
Tags: , , ,
WHAT NOT TO PUT DOWN YOUR GARBAGE DISPOSALS by Ron Giles of PRS

WHAT NOT TO PUT DOWN YOUR GARBAGE DISPOSALS by Ron Giles of PRS

  • Posted: Jun 17, 2020
  • By:
  • Comments: Comments Off on WHAT NOT TO PUT DOWN YOUR GARBAGE DISPOSALS by Ron Giles of PRS

WHAT NOT TO PUT DOWN YOUR GARBAGE DISPOSALS

by Ron Giles of PRS

After many uses, garbage disposal blades need sharping. Just a hand full of ice can do the job. Another tip is put the drain plug in the garbage disposal. Fill the kitchen sink full of water. Turn on the garbage disposal and pull the plug.

 

1. Grease or oil. Just because it is out of sight does not mean the garbage disposal “disposed” of it. Usually, it solidifies and begins to build up in your pipes. Not good.
2. Vegetable peels. You might get away with it from time to time, but odds are, eventually this one will catch up with you–and leave you a soupy backfilled mess in your sink. Garbage disposals do not do too many peels–they’ll spit them up like an unhappy infant.
3. Egg shells. Believe or not, the membrane on the inside of the egg can wrap around the blades and wreak havoc. Better just to compost them.
4. Coffee Grounds. These seem like they go down fine, but over time, the little grounds build up like sediment in the pipes, causing all sorts of trouble.
5. Pits or seeds. Think: peach pits, avocado pits, cherries, etc. I am sure this one goes without mentioning, but it will basically rattle around in there like a pinball of destruction.
6. Bones. I know, again, duh.
7. Anything in bulk. Feed your disposal small meals, let it grind it up, then add more.
8. Garbage. Think: cigarette butts or paper. It is not really designed for those sorts of things and will get testy.
9. Rice and pasta. I did not know this. Basically, every time you turn the water on, the pasta and rice will continue to expand–even after your supposedly ground it up.
10. Stringy veggies. Think: celery, artichokes, carrots, corn husks, or even some types of lettuce. The stringy parts can wrap around the blades, causing resistance on the blades.
11. Potato Peels. These suckers can cause a soupy mess in your disposal down the road—even if you think you can get away with dumping them down the drain from time to time. The same goes for other starchy vegetables and beans.
12. Harsh Chemicals. Do not mistake your kitchen sink for a chemistry laboratory. The grinding components of most garbage disposals are made of galvanized steel which can corrode when contacted with strong chemicals like bleaching powder and such cleaning agents.
13. Onion Skins. The onion skin can get caught in the blades, but the worst thing is the will cause clogs down the pipes.
14. Pumpkins. Anyone who carved a pumpkin for Halloween knows how sticky they are. When thrown down a garbage disposal though they are juicy and slimy they will stick on to the grinding blades and form a clog. The only way to get rid of a pumpkin clog is by dismantling the pipes and cleaning it.
15. Corn Husk. Corn husks are some of the most fibrous items you can find in a kitchen. They are extremely difficult to grind and should never ever end up in a disposal.
16. Seafood. While you may feel confident that seafood like shrimp can be disposed of safely in a garbage disposal that’s not the case. Instead of going down the pipes they will form a white little ball that will clog the disposal. No matter what magical remedies you try dismantling the pipes is the only option that will work.

 

 

 

Tags: , , ,
The Importance of Getting Permits For Additions and Improvements for your properties.

The Importance of Getting Permits For Additions and Improvements for your properties.

  • Posted: Jun 11, 2020
  • By:
  • Comments: Comments Off on The Importance of Getting Permits For Additions and Improvements for your properties.

The Importance of Getting Permits For Additions and Improvements

 

Getting Permits For Work at Your House is Vital

When you consider making improvements or additions to your home, it can be tempting to try and skirt the permit process. In some cities and towns, the cost and hassle of getting a permit can seem unnecessary, especially if you are handy and like to make renovations, or you have a friend who offers to do it for you.

Unfortunately, when you go and try to sell your home, the lack of permits can prove to be a real problem. Buyers may balk at purchasing a home that does not have permits – fearing that the additions may be unsafe or not properly done.

In the end, getting the property permits is always a good idea.

Often a home seller will say to me “I’m selling my home do I need permits for work I have done”? Unfortunately, the answer is usually yes you do.

 

The Temptation Of Avoiding Permits

The temptation to avoid getting a permit for home improvements is something every owner faces at one point or another. It is understandable, as the cost of home improvements and additions is already high in many cases.

The permit process – including the inspection to verify the work is up to standards – can seem like a pain. It may take some time to complete the process, time you may not feel like you have.

Those most tempted to avoid permits are homeowners that are interested in actually saving money by doing the work themselves, or bringing in a friend who has experience in home repair and renovation.

The friend – or inexpensive contractor you hire – may even imply that you do not need to worry about getting a permit. This, of course, is WRONG!

 

The Real Reason Why Most Don’t Pull Permits

The real reason that many homeowners don’t pull permits isn’t that of paying a few hundred bucks to the town hall or the inconvenience that comes with it. Nearly every city and town in America collects taxes bases upon the assessed value of a home. Assessed value is calculated by looking at the size and characteristics of property.

What is the gross living area? How many bedrooms does it have? How many bathrooms? These are all factors in determining an appropriate assessed value.

Guess what happens when the tax assessor knows about the luxurious new finished basement with home theater, wet bar, home gym and beautiful bath you just added. If you guessed your taxes are going up, then you are 100 percent correct.

When no permits have pulled the town most likely will not find out, and your taxes will not take the upward climb, they would have otherwise.

Homeowners can save thousands of dollars over the course of owning a home when permits are not pulled. When selling a home, this becomes very problematic. If and when the town or city finds out about it, the new owner is the one who will bear the brunt of the increased taxes paid.

This will often lead to disputing high property taxes. In the case where the town has not collected taxes in years, it may be harder to get a justified abatement.

 

The Problem With Not Getting Permits

When you go to sell your home, there will always be a home inspection and an appraisal conducted by certified professionals. This is just part of the selling process, and it helps buyers know what they are getting into before they buy the home.

The inspector and appraiser will likely go over your house with a fine-toothed comb, looking over every area to verify that the home is in good working order – sometimes even checking all public records on the home.

There are no requirements for the home inspector or appraiser to check on permits for improvements to the home, but this does not mean someone will not ask about them. The inspector, the appraiser, the buyer and the bank that is doing the lending, all have the ability to request public records from your home, which will include the permits that have been acquired for the home.

A good buyers agent should always ask if there were permits pulled when a significant addition or finished basement has been added. These types of improvements can have a significant impact financially for a new owner.

You can run into major problems when someone discovers that renovations were done to the home without permits. This can, in fact, stop a home sale. There is an especially high risk of getting found out if the improvements were made recently.

The appraiser can see what the house consisted of when you bought it, and will notice if there is not an extra bathroom, deck or finished basement. The bigger the addition or improvement to the home, the more likely that someone will notice that something is off.

 

Buyers Want Certified Work

Unless you are in an extremely tight housing market, where buyers are desperate and will take anything, you can expect people to be concerned with any improvements that do not have the proper permits.

A lack of permits implies several problems to potential buyers, including safety and quality issues.

 

Safety Concerns

Customers want to move into a safe home. They may be planning to start a family, or already have children. They may just be uneasy about any work that was not done by a certified professional.

Part of the permit process is intended to verify that the improvements to a home were made properly, according to regulations, by someone who knows what he or she is doing.

Knowing that all safety rules and standard building practices were observed gives buyers peace of mind. Another would be hiring the local handyman to do electrical wiring a licensed electrician should have done.

In some cases, it is even possible that you may not have insurance coverage if there was a major catastrophe like a fire. The perfect example is the owner who goes out and buys a wood stove for the fireplace and doesn’t bother to pull an installation permit with the fire department.

Good luck getting an insurance claim if the insurance company finds out there are no permits, and the stove was the cause of the fire.

 

Quality Concerns

Safety may be the first thing buyers think about when they see you lack permits, but questions about the quality of the work will come quickly after.

The fact that you do not have a permit makes buyers think that you were trying to cut corners. You may have hired someone that was not fully qualified to do the work, or you may have done the work yourself and not known what you were doing.

Whatever the truth is, buyers will suspect shoddy craftsmanship when there is a missing permit. No one wants to pour hundreds of thousands of dollars into a home with poorly crafted improvements.

A good example here is all the homeowners who had to deal with removing ice dams this past winter. There are a lot of negative things ice dams can do to a home including mold. In cases where mold is bad walls may need to be removed and rebuilt.

If it is bad enough, you may even need to relocate or replace the electrical wiring. Could a homeowner fix this themselves? I am sure many have. That doesn’t mean hiring a professional who pulls a permit for this kind of work is not the right way to go.

 

What Happens When I Don’t Have Building Permits

One of the questions I am often asked by homeowners when they are considering selling is what will happen if I don’t have a building permit for work done on my home. There is no clear cut and dry answer on this but in my experience, the local city or town will ask the homeowner to go through the permitting process.

The owner will, of course, have to pay all necessary fees involved with the construction. Each of the applicable inspectors will also need to come through and inspect the work.

Many homeowners are asking this question because they want to know if the town will make them rip out everything they have built and start from scratch. In my twenty-nice years of selling real estate I have not experienced this.

That, however, does not mean it is not possible. Homeowners should be very apologetic to the local building department when it has been discovered there are no permits pulled.

 

What Are Additional Risks of Not Pulling Permits

One of the other risks of not pulling permits is getting sued later on down the road by the buyer who purchases your home. Unfortunately, we live in a sue-happy society where people are always looking for someone to blame.

When you don’t pull a permit, and something tragic happens years down the road, who do you think they are going to come after?

In Massachusetts when selling a home, it is standard practice that homeowners fill out a form called the “sellers statement of property condition.” Lots of states use these forms.

They are primarily a disclosure of what the seller knows and doesn’t know about the home. One of the first questions on this form asks “have you done any work on the home in which a permit was required.” You better answer this one honestly folks for the reason above I just mentioned!

 

When Do I Need to Pull a Building Permit?

There is no clear cut and dry answer on when you will need to pull a building permit for an improvement to your home. The best way to find out is to pick up the phone and call the local building department or stop in for a face to face.

The building inspector should be able to quickly tell you if you will need a permit for your project or not.

It is safe to assume that anything safety related will require a permit. You can also expect that a permit will be necessary when you are doing something that will significantly alter your home.

One important reminder – When all the work has been completed don’t forget to have a final inspection and get the permit closed out! Over the years I have had several clients who have done the right thing and pulled a building permit but never closed it out once all the work was completed.

Closing out a permit is often called getting a certificate of occupancy. Recently while selling a home, I ran into this exact situation.

The owner pulled an original building permit but never asked for a final inspection, so the project was never filed as completed. Luckily, the building department did not make them do anything special other than getting a final inspection.

You could, however, find yourself in a situation where you are not so lucky if there are code changes between the time the permit is pulled and when you are selling your home. So make sure when the project is completed a final inspection is done, and certificate of occupancy is issued.

Here are some examples of items you will more than likely need a permit for:

  • A finished basement.
  • A bathroom remodel or adding a bathroom.
  • The addition of a deck.
  • The addition of a screened porch.
  • Changing or upgrading your electrical service.

These are just a few quick examples. There are many other items for which you will need to pull a permit.

 

 

Tags: , , ,
Most people do not give much thought to their pipes – until they stop working by Ronnie Giles of PRS

Most people do not give much thought to their pipes – until they stop working by Ronnie Giles of PRS

  • Posted: Jun 04, 2020
  • By:
  • Comments: Comments Off on Most people do not give much thought to their pipes – until they stop working by Ronnie Giles of PRS

 

Ronnie Giles 561-602-8660

Sr. Account Manager Florida East Coast

CAI Business Partner Certified

#CGC 1517755 / #CFC 1429221

PRS_FinalFiles

Tags: , , , ,
Gyms in your Building:  Will owners use it?

Gyms in your Building: Will owners use it?

Gyms in your Building: Clean the Equipment in your Fitness Centers!
Will owners use it? Funding it with condo funds? What you will need with Development? Expert advice? upkeep and questions?

 

We spoke with Commercial Fitness Products, and its

Owner Richard Wasserlauf
5034 Hiatus Road
Sunrise, Florida 33351

 

I can think of a building we worked on a short time ago bringing a new designed fitness facility in their condo.

The committee figured they’d be able to pay that money back to the reserve in five years, assuming 25 percent of the building’s residents would join. (“It was guesswork,” says Richard.) They charged a one-time sign-up fee of $300 and $250 per year for the first person in a unit and $150 for each additional unit resident.

“They paid it back in less than two years,” says Richard. Sixty-five of the building’s 100 units belong to the gym—84 residents altogether. The early success enabled the committee to cut the yearly fee in half, to $125. “They still covered operating costs,” says Richard, “and allocate about $3,000 a year for equipment replacement—which hasn’t been necessary yet—and continue to contribute $2,000 to $3,000 a year to the reserve fund.”

The Building, a 27-story, 156-unit cooperative in Manhattan is a success story. working with developers and board members, helped get the gym project done, converting a 500-square-foot room in the basement into a gym with a budget of a mere $30,000 taken from the reserve fund. Residents pay $225 per year for membership.

“The gym has about 100 members today,” says Richard. “We’re well ahead of the game. The membership dues more than replenishes the reserve that we took out for it, and pays for the upkeep.” he adds that, “The building has a healthy turnover of apartments and 90 percent of new buyers join the gym.”

 

Building the Gym

Buying workout equipment is the easiest part of the build-out. “A lot of people think they are going to take the bike room, put equipment in it, paint the walls, and call it a day,” observes Richard Wasserlauf, Owner of Commercial Fitness Products, a leading gym equipment retailer. “In Sunrise Florida, that is not going to cut it.”

The first thing you need to need to consider, advises Richard, “is what construction and code obstacles you might need to overcome to pull the project off.” Potential problems include open asbestos, lead paint on the walls, mold or fungus problems, and particularly in basement spaces, pipes that sweat in the summer. Basement spaces also have the issue of exposed pipes, conduits and drain lines. As older buildings replace systems, they often leave old piping, electrical conduits and phone lines in place. Each should be tested and removed if inactive.

HVAC is perhaps the most important system in the facility. To meet city code, the gym space must have 15 percent fresh air flowing into the space. If the proposed space for the gym is not already equipped with central air conditioning, ducting will need to be installed if the room does not have a window. If there is a window, you need to install a unit with adequate power.

“You’re looking to maintain 68° year round—that often means running a cooling system practically year round,” says Richard, both for safety and comfort—to keep members coming back to the club. If there is any sort of landing or ledge outside the window on which to set a compressor, Heidings recommends a split system, available for around $2,000.

Another important code issue with which the gym room must conform is egress—providing a clear and unencumbered path out of the room if there is an emergency such as a fire or loss of power.

 

 

Bring in a Pro

To get a clear and objective evaluation of the condition of the room, and to get an idea of the construction costs entailed, it’s best to consult an architect right up front, says Richard. “If you find that your construction costs are very high, you may just say this is just something we cannot afford right now—or ever,” unless or until there is a more suitable space available in the building.

Some of the major design challenges is inclusion of light. Most often spaces designed for this purpose are in basements or underutilized rooms, and may not have natural light to make the space breathable. Lighting design, therefore, becomes very important. Many gyms find that fluorescent in fixtures aimed upward to soften the light are an effective and inexpensive alternative to high-end lighting.

You should also note if the floor has adequate space and structural capacity for both the equipment and the occupants, he says.

Another element to consider, say the designers, is noise—both kinds: vibration caused by things like treadmills, which primarily travels vertically downward; and audible, like the clanging and dropping of weights or the thumping of runners. A thick rubber floor like the ones commonly used in commercial gyms addresses both. Rubber flooring for a 600-square-foot gym costs around $5,000, say the pros.

A particularly pernicious vibration problem can be solved by laying a floating floor on top of the existing and then putting rubber over that, plus sealing and caulking every edge of the space as well as every pipe intrusion and structural column. A dropped ceiling filled with insulation will keep noise from traveling upward. In luxury condominiums, “Rubber flooring comes at different price points. some have the capability to deliver custom colors and complement the upholstery on the equipment.

The gym must have mirrors on approximately half the wall space in the gym, corresponding to the placement of the stretching/ab area and the apparatus. The price range for mirror panelling is typically from $3,000 to $5,000. Lastly, a computerized electronic lock on the door not only keeps the room secure, but keeps track of who is in the room and when, in case anything is damaged or stolen. Plastic keycards, which can easily be passed around to non-member residents, have been replaced by palm or fingerprint scanners, available for under $1,000.

 

Layout and Design

A well thought-out private gym provides a full-body workout, which includes warm-up, stretch, cardio, strength training and cool-down. According to Commercial Fitness Products, cardio equipment will generally be the most used. A 500-600-square-foot gym will typically have two treadmills (approximately $2,000 each), two elliptical machines ($1,500 each), a recumbent bike ($2,000), an upright bike (under $2,000), a multi-station weight apparatus (around $5,000) and at least two racks of free weights and two benches (under $1,000). A popular, fabulously versatile new apparatus is the functional trainer (around $3,500), which uses two adjustable-height and width pulleys attached to individual weight stacks and offers a wide range of exercises.

The gym above, containing all commercial grade brand-name equipment, including delivery and installation, should come to about $30,000 plus tax. .

It’s important, says Richard, to decide what’s necessary and what’s not. For example, consider whether adding a shower/locker room is essential. Perhaps residents would prefer using their own apartments for that function rather than the in-house gym, where maintenance could prove expensive or difficult. Other concerns are consulting with an attorney and insurer on liability issues, and making sure the facility is secure using safety-conscious materials and products.

Building insurance almost always covers injury and mishaps in the gym (just as it does in the laundry room), as long as no one under 16 is allowed admission. No additional policy is usually required—though of course it’s wise to double-check with your building’s insurance carrier to make absolutely sure.

The life span of equipment in a gym varies from piece to piece in a co-op or condo gym, conservatively, treadmills can be counted on to last about five years, elliptical machines about seven and bikes about 10. Weight machines last indefinitely, requiring only occasional reupholstering and replacement of pulleys and cams. Regular professional maintenance will help extend the life of all the equipment. Contracts, usually costing around $1,200 a year, include inspection, adjustment and lubrication of all moving and mechanical parts.

In addition to quarterly maintenance visits, the room has to be cleaned every day. This is typically done by existing building staff, the chore includes wiping down all the equipment with disinfectant, vacuuming the floor, emptying the garbage and cleaning the bathroom if there is one.

Adding TV screens to each of the six cardio pieces above would add at least $6,000 to the cost of the package. Richard says about half the gyms he equips go without any TVs at all to save on cable bills, figuring people bring their iPods for entertainment. Some have just two BestBuy or Costco-bought flat screens on the wall, using their speakers to produce the sound. Other more extravagant buildings spend tens of thousands on individual touchscreens with wireless internet as well as cable TV.

 

 

You’ve Built It: Now Make Sure They Come

In order to let residents know that their new gym is open and fully operational, “Do as many kickoff events as you can,” Richard advises. “You’ve got to get a lot of energy down there.” As soon as the gym is finished, do a wine and cheese ribbon-cutting ceremony. Later on, bring in a trainer to lead several training sessions for four or five shareholders at a time.

“The building can offer regularly scheduled yoga, stretch and pilates mat classes, because while yoga studios that offer classes without membership abound in Florida, “there are very few places people can go to take pilates classes without joining an expensive gym.

Yoga and pilates classes can generate a modest extra income for the building—and at the same time help keep shareholders and tenants healthy. we’ve just begun a Fitness After Fifty program that seems to be going well.” geared to the older owners.

The bottom line is that not only can a well-designed, well-maintained gym facility add value to your building, it can help boost community spirit as residents bond over the iron, and it helps keep your owners and shareholders healthy. And that’s a winning equation.

 

amen_Fitness_Room-CardioCall for all of your Fitness needs, Throughout South Florida.
Find out more about:
Commercial Fitness Products
Richard Wasserlauf
Address: 5034 Hiatus Road
Sunrise, Florida 33351
Phone: 954-747-5128
Fax: 239-938-1462
E-Mail: SALES@COMMFITNESSPRODUCTS.COM
Web: http://www.commfitnessproducts.com

And Find us on the

Find-A-Service Directory on SFPMA.COM

https://sfpma.com/listing/commercial-fitness-products/

Tags: , , ,