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ARE CONDO FEES BAD?

ARE CONDO FEES BAD?

  • Posted: Oct 29, 2021
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ARE CONDO FEES BAD?

by Steven J. Weil, Ph.D., EA, LCAM, President

Royale Management Services, Inc.

 

Your maintenance fees cover many of the same things you would need to pay for as a homeowner.

What’s included?   As a condo owner, it’s useful to know how your maintenance fees are determined. No one is profiting from these fees. They are determined by the board of directors who are elected by the owners and charged with responsibility for operating the association. They represent your share of the common expenses as agreed to in the governing documents.

What you pay is determined by estimating the costs for operation and maintenance for the budget year. These costs include controllable costs — those over which the board can exercise control, e.g., wages of association employees, improvements, along with the cost services offered to owners and residents — as well as non-controllable costs, e.g. insurance, water, garbage collection, electricity, repairs, and existing long-term contracts such as bulk cable agreements.

Each year the board and management review the prior year’s costs and do everything in their power to project the cost for the coming year. These costs become the budget’s expense line items; and once they are calculated, any income from other sources (such as laundry and outside rental income) is taken into account. The total projected expenses are then reduced by the outside income, and whatever is left becomes the maintenance for the coming year. After that, it’s a simple matter of calculating each unit owner’s share of this amount based on the formula set forth in the governing documents.

 

In many associations, non-controllable expenses make up the majority of the expenses, with insurance often being more than a quarter of the total expenses. Add to this, utilities (which varies), long-term contracts, and required repairs and upkeep, and you can see that the expenses the board can control can be limited often to less than 20% of the total expenses.

The board must also fully fund reserves based on the current replacement cost of reserve items. Reserves may not be waived or reduced by the board. They can, however, be reduced or waived by a vote of the owners. Reserve funding is added to the cost of the maintenance fees already calculated and becomes part of the regular maintenance payment.  Reserves cover the wear and tear on items with a useful life of more than one year, such as roofs, painting, and paving, along with other major items that will wear out over time.

Each association’s budget is different. Accordingly, maintenance fees generally reflect things that are unique to each association. For example, associations with 24-hour security personnel, bulk cable contracts that include the internet, and expensive-to-maintain lobbies will have higher maintenance fees than those that provide fewer services and amenities.

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Checklist to help you with Insurance, Things Change in your Family life! | SFPMA

Checklist to help you with Insurance, Things Change in your Family life! | SFPMA

  • Posted: Sep 13, 2021
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Checklist to help you with Insurance, Things Change in your Family life!

Changes in your life or lifestyle mean you should update your auto, home and umbrella insurance coverage. You may find you can save money by dropping unneeded coverage (say, for a child who has left for college) or that you need extra insurance (say, for heirloom jewelry you’ve just inherited)

Renovations to your main home or a new building on your property (say, a gazebo) can mean you’re underinsured and need to increase the value of the structures coverage on your home policy. This is especially important if you’ve put in a lot of money into renovation, or expanded your square footage

You need a policy review if you’ve bought (or inherited) any jewelry, fine arts, furs or collectibles such as wines, instruments, coins, guns or cameras. These are items you may want to list separately, or it may be cheaper to include them under a “collectibles rider.” You also need revisions if your collectibles have appreciated in value.

It’s hard to believe, but people forget to take old cars off their policies when they trade in one car for another. If you have any motorized toys, such as all-terrain vehicles, boats, or jet skis, make sure that your underlying auto or home policies, as well as your umbrella, cover your use of these.

If your teenager starts driving or you let an au pair or nanny drive your car, you must add him or her to your policy. Before you buy a car specifically for this new driver’s use, check the impact on your premiums. Some carriers will let you assign a young driver to a clunker, while others assume a young driver is using most valuable car in your garage, making it cheaper not to add another car.

 

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Your Kids Are Leaving Home

If your kids go to college out of town, call your auto insurer–they’ll still be on your policy, but the policy’s cost should go down. If they move out permanently, make sure to take them off your auto policy.

If you transfer ownership of your house, artwork, a car or any other asset into the name of a trust, limited liability company or family limited partnership, you need to add the entity as an additional insured on your policy. If you’ve transferred the home you live in to a trust for estate planning purposes, you want both your name and the name of the trust on the policy.

No matter what’s going on in your life, you should review your insurance coverage at least once a year. The easiest time to do this is when the renewal notices come. Your insurer (or agent) will notify you of changes or “amendments” to your policies, for better or worse. Read that new fine print, as it may mean you need to take action.

 

  • Check for loose or leaky gutters. Improper drainage can lead to water in the basement or crawl space. Make sure downspouts drain away from the foundation and are clear and free of debris.
  • Low areas in the yard or next to the foundation should be filled with compacted soil. Spring rains can cause yard flooding, which can lead to foundation flooding and damage. Also, when water pools in these low areas in summer, it creates a breeding ground for insects.
  • Use a screwdriver to probe the wood trim around windows, doors, railings and decks. Make repairs now before the spring rains do more damage to the exposed wood.
  • From the ground, examine roof shingles to see if any were lost or damaged during winter. If your home has an older roof covering, you may want to start a budget for replacement. The summer sun can really damage roof shingles. Shingles that are cracked, buckled or loose or are missing granules need to be replaced. Flashing around plumbing vents, skylights and chimneys need to be checked and repaired by a qualified roofer.
  • Examine the exterior of the chimney for signs of damage. Have the flue cleaned and inspected by a certified chimney sweep.
  • Inspect concrete slabs for signs of cracks or movement. All exterior slabs except pool decks should drain away from the home’s foundation. Fill cracks with a concrete crack filler or silicone caulk. When weather permits, power-wash and then seal the concrete.
  • Remove firewood stored near the home. Firewood should be stored at least 18 inches off the ground at least 2 feet from the structure.
  • Check outside hose faucets for freeze damage. Turn the water on and place your thumb or finger over the opening. If you can stop the flow of water, it is likely the pipe inside the home is damaged and will need to be replaced. While you’re at it, check the garden hose for dry rot.
  • Have a qualified heating and cooling contractor clean and service the outside unit of the air conditioning system. Clean coils operate more efficiently, and an annual service call will keep the system working at peak performance levels. Change interior filters on a regular basis.
  • Check your gas- and battery-powered lawn equipment to make sure it is ready for summer use. Clean equipment and sharp cutting blades will make yardwork easier.

 

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DID YOU KNOW? Your homeowner’s insurance policy doesn’t cover flood damage. That requires a separate flood policy. Your homeowner’s policy could, however, cover other damage that is water related. 

 

You visit your doctor for a yearly checkup… why wouldn’t you do the same with your insurance agent? An annual review of your insurance policies is recommended because your financial situation can change year to year. A review doesn’t have to be time consuming like most people think. If you haven’t been getting a yearly review, it makes sense to start now. There is little to be gained by carrying the wrong types or amounts of insurance and so much, potentially, to be lost!

 

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Premier Fire Alarm and Integration Systems, We assist you in ensuring that your fire alarm system complies with national fire codes and Florida building codes.

Premier Fire Alarm and Integration Systems, We assist you in ensuring that your fire alarm system complies with national fire codes and Florida building codes.

  • Posted: Mar 22, 2021
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Premier Fire Alarms & Integration Systems, Installation Division Inc. is dedicated to providing the most reliable systems and service in the alarm industry. Helping protect the lives and property of our customers is a responsibility we embrace and never take lightly. In every endeavor, we strive to satisfy our customers by meeting and exceeding their expectations.

Fire Alarm Repair and Maintenance   *   Fire Alarm Service Agreement & Contracts   *   Fire Alarm Service Monitoring

Call now for free consultation

954-404-7137

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Painting or Coating?  Basic considerations for long term durability. – by William Pyznar / The Falcon Group

Painting or Coating? Basic considerations for long term durability. – by William Pyznar / The Falcon Group

Painting or Coating? Basic considerations for long term durability.

by William Pyznar / The Falcon Group

 

“Painting” your building sounds simple enough.  Most would anticipate the most important decision to be selecting which color to paint it.  However, a lot of chemistry and physics will play an important role in how that “paint” performs and how long it will be sticking to your building, protecting it and looking good.

For starters, lets differentiate between “paint” and “coating”.  All coatings are paints, but not all paints are coatings.   Generally speaking, paint is used for aesthetics, and coatings are used for performance.  Coatings are paints that serve a purpose beyond just the aesthetic color and finish.  In addition to color and texture, coatings can provide waterproofing, elasticity, breathability, dirt shedding and corrosion prevention properties.  With these additional properties typically comes added cost.  As such, it is important to make sure you are selecting the correct coating with proper preparation and application techniques to get the best long-lasting performance and return on your investment.

Most coating failures can be attributed one of three issues:

  • Improper selection of material
  • Improper preparation of the substrate
  • Improper application.

Before selecting a coating material and process, first consider the condition of the existing conditions and how the existing coating is performing and the condition of the existing substrate. Also consider what characteristics and results you are looking to achieve. Looking a little deeper into each of the causes of failure.  If there is an existing coating and the existing coating has failed, it is crucial to understand why before investing in recoating.   If the existing coating is performing, but you are looking to recoat for aesthetics, waterproofing or other performance characteristics, it is also imperative to understand the existing coating to be able to select the proper material, preparation and application of the new coating.

 

Selecting the new Coating:  Selecting the new coating will be governed by desired performance characteristics and chemistry.   You need to determine which performance characteristics you need such as breathability, elasticity, waterproofing, corrosion resistance and dirt shedding.  You then need to consider what materials you are going over.  The new coating should be compatible with the existing surface chemically and physically.

For example, topcoats should generally be of the same generic type of curing mechanism as undercoats and you don’t want to apply a rigid coating over a flexible base.  If it is anticipated that moisture escaping the concrete or wood substrate is a concern you may want to select a breathable material.  If crack bridging and movement is a concern, you may want to select an elastic material.  If existing layers of paint exist, you don’t want to keep applying layers of coatings so as to reduce the elasticity of the overall coating thickness.  Latexes are generally less effected by moisture then oil-based coatings.  Oil based coatings are not recommended for direct application on galvanized surfaces because the alkalinity on the galvanized surface will degrade the oil binder causing peeling.

 

Surface Preparation:  Surface preparation is the single most important factor in determining coating durability.  Proper preparation removes surface contaminants such as dirt, mildew chalking, salts and rust which can interfere with adhesion of the new coating.   Proper preparation will also produce a surface profile that will promote good adhesion.  There are varying surface preparation processes that are recommended, which vary with the surface such as existing coating, steel, wood or concrete and the condition of the surface such peeling or chalking coatings, fresh or old concrete, painted or bare wood, oiled or rusting steel, etc.   There are dozens of preparation methods from blasting and sanding, washing with soap, chemicals or acid to making repairs of the surface itself.  The selected methods are a function of the materials being used, the existing conditions and the environment.

 

Application:  It is important to apply coatings immediately after preparation so as to avoid contamination of the surface.  The grace period from preparation to coating will vary greatly with material and environment.   For example, freshly blasted steel in a marine environment will start to form a corrosive film almost immediately.  Whereas bare wood can be exposed to sunlight for up to two weeks before the sunlight causes photo-degradation of the wood, which must be sanded off to avoid adhesion issues.

Other considerations during the application process include access, weather conditions, including wind, precipitation, temperature and humidity, dust (natural or construction related), and the actual application methods such as brush, roller or spray.  Application method will be governed by the type of material and the type and condition of the substrate, as well as the environmental conditions.  It is important to achieve the specific millage in the  application and the specific dry film thickness.

In summary, once you have selected a color scheme for your project, it is important to understand there is an extensive amount of legwork to fully understand what and how coatings should be applied to your building to get the most out of your investment and to avoid costly defects.  A professional consultant with expertise in repairs and coatings can help guide this process and perform some simple field tests to identify the existing material type, moisture concerns and visible conditions to come up with the best long term specification for your investment.

WJP

The Falcon Group | Engineers, Architects & Reserve Specialists

www.falconengineering.com 

Miami ph: 305.663.1970 x509  West Palm Beach ph: 561.290.0504 

 

 

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Behind The Scenes Of Your Commercial Roof Anatomy with emergency roof repair. by PSI Roofing

Behind The Scenes Of Your Commercial Roof Anatomy with emergency roof repair. by PSI Roofing

  • Posted: Jul 20, 2020
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Behind The Scenes Of Your Commercial Roof Anatomy with emergency roof repair.

by PSI Roofing

We are in the Rainy Season in Florida, Water is not your Roofs Friend!

If your commercial property sustains enough damage in a short enough time to cause you to consider shuttering the doors, you have an emergency repair. This could mean:

  • Storm damage
  • A dangerous water leak
  • A problem that puts expensive inventory and equipment at risk

Bear in mind that an emergency roof repair may not be a finished job. Tarping and other temporary measures can stave off further damage. Your local commercial roofer will return with a full crew at a later date to complete a thorough repair. This could mean two invoices, or it could open an insurance claim that stretches across weeks.

If you knew about a problem last week and chose not to call for help, you already know the problem is not an emergency. And yet, are you a roofing expert? That small leak may be the first sign of more extensive failure, which brings us to our second idea.

Checklist

Some factors making a roof repair an emergency, other than seeing intense damage in a short time, include:

  • Widespread damage, as from winds or heavy rain
  • A high volume of water infiltration
  • Multiple leaks
  • Sudden appearance of mold or smell of mildew

If In Doubt

If you are unsure a roof problem is an emergency or just a routine repair, call your contractor. Let your roofer make the decision. That small leak that is only dampening insulation under the single-ply membrane could develop into widespread mold. It could rot wooden roof deck members. It could find its way inside the building envelope and drip on inventory or office equipment.

 

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Once you know a bit about commercial roof anatomy, you will realize you cannot wait when your flat roof “patient” is flatlining. You need to dispatch a commercial roofing partner to your roof, stat. 

Commercial Roof Anatomy

No two low-slope (flat) commercial roofs are exactly identical. Their surfaces can be finished in several ways:

  • Modified Bitumen (Mod-Bit) and Built-Up Roofing (BUR) — A tried-and true multi-ply system with granulated finishes applied hot or cold
  • TPO — Rubber laminated systems
  • PVC — PVC scrim systems
  • Liquid-applied membrane and coatings — Acrylic, urethane, silicone

Three other types of commercial roofing are available for steep-slope roofs:

  • Shingles
  • Metal Roofs, including flat seam and standing seam
  • Tiles

Basic roof structures are similar, and the vast majority of Florida commercial roofs are low-slope. Setting aside the steep-slope options, if we start at the top and dig down, we usually find:

  • The exposed roofing surface (one of the materials mentioned above)
  • Insulation (usually rigid sheets specially shaped to give the pitch)
  • Vapor Barrier (prevents moisture moving into and out of the building envelope)
  • Underlayment (additional waterproofing)
  • Roof Deck (steel, wood, concrete, plywood, oriented-strand board)
  • Steel or Wood Joists

Every layer represents centuries of trial-and-error improvements in building low-slope roofs.

Today we can install roofs that take Florida’s punishing weather, save energy costs, and last for decades with proper, professional maintenance.

Exposed Roofing Surface

The wide array of choices in surfacing your commercial roof makes close communication with your roofer essential. Your decision on a replacement roof depends on a lot of factors your roofer can explain:

  • Age of your existing roof
  • Ease of access
  • Available budget
  • Expected life span of the replacement
  • Scheduling
  • Noise and odor concerns

The best time to begin contemplating a reroof is long before your roof needs replacement. Enlist your commercial roofer for routine maintenance so the crews become familiar with your commercial roof anatomy. When you need to pick between TPO, BUR, or PVC, you can make the decision quickly and economically.

Every material has its pros and cons. Mod-Bit and BUR are among the oldest and least expensive but typically call for more roof maintenance and upkeep than TPO and PVC. PVC is a tough, long-lasting material that may be pricier than other choices at installation.

Liquid waterproofing coatings can extend the life of most roofs, but the coatings need to be compatible with the existing surface.

Your best advisor on a roofing surface — the skin of your commercial roof anatomy — is your local roofer.

Insulation

Large sheets of rigid board insulation form the layer that helps determine your roof’s slope and energy efficiency. Roof decks are built completely flat, but the shaped insulation provides adequate drainage to internal drains and parapet scuppers.

With deteriorating insulation, you will be ponding, slow drainage, and water infiltration.

Your commercial roofer specializes in dealing with this layer of commercial roof anatomy and can correct any compression or ponding issues before reroofing with the surface layer.

Vapor Barrier

As the American Institute of Architects (AIA) explains, most vapor barriers on commercial buildings are Class 1 vapor retarders. Vapor retarders slow the movement of both air and moisture into and out of your building.

This special layer of commercial roof anatomy saves money on energy costs, keeps the interior comfortable, and slows the rusting of steel joists and decking.

Underlayment

Underlayment can be synthetic or organic, but its main purpose is to inhibit moisture from reaching the roof deck. It is usually rolled out and can be either self-adhered chemically or physically attached with fasteners.

Roof Deck

Without the roof deck spanning the open spaces over the joists of your building, no roof could exist. A substantial, solid and structurally sound roof deck is essential. This layer of commercial roof anatomy forms the foundation for all the sheet and rolled goods applied atop it. It can be corrugated steel plates, poured concrete, wood timbers, plywood, or oriented-strand board (OSB).

If rust or rot infects your roof deck, you need your commercial roofer’s help immediately. Florida’s strong winds and heavy rains will punch holes right through a weak roof deck.

Steel or Wood Joists

Spanning the walls of your commercial building are the steel joists or, in some cases, wood beams or joists that hold up the roof and keep walls secure. Hurricane codes call for strong ties between walls and roofs, and those ties focus on these joists. Think of these joists as the skeleton holding your building together. Let your commercial roofer help you become familiar with your building’s commercial roof anatomy. Routine maintenance and roof repairs will pay off with cost-efficient, fast reroofing when the time is right. Neglecting a commercial roof could cost you your business. We have the prescription. Contact us at PSI Roofing today to keep your flat roof in good health.

 

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Lake Management and Hurricane Season, by AllState Resource Management

Lake Management and Hurricane Season, by AllState Resource Management

  • Posted: Jul 16, 2020
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Lake Management and Hurricane Season

by AllState Resource Management

Many South Florida homeowners are not aware of the critical role their community lakes play in managing stormwater and mitigating local area flooding. With the start of this year’s hurricane season around the corner, now is the time to make sure that our lakes and waterways are ready to deal with whatever nature throws at us. The problem of flooding is a real issue here because our homes are built on relatively flat, low-lying ground. The thin layer of soil under our feet can become saturated quickly, and sits on a cap of coral rock that only allows for a slow flow of water down to the aquifers below. This, combined with the possibility of large amounts of precipitation in short periods of time creates conditions for major flooding in our urban areas.
When developers create residential communities and commercial areas, they need to take into account how much water needs to be stored or moved in order to prevent the project from flooding during major rain events. Through careful planning and design, they route stormwater away from our homes and into a system of lakes and canals. The size and number of lakes in our communities are a result of those calculations. Lakes are dug to create a storage area for water runoff from storms. The fill dug from the lakes is then used to raise the elevation of the homes around them.
Using a system of drains and pipes the water is directed from the developed areas down into the lakes. Some community lakes use weirs or culverts to connect them to the municipal canal system. This allows them to move excess water off the property once they reach a certain level. The system works well but requires regular maintenance in order to ensure that it works properly when needed. Scheduled inspections of storm drains and weirs is important to keep the water moving off our streets and properties efficiently.
These structures accumulate silt and debris, and will occasionally need to be cleaned out. The lakes themselves also need to be regularly inspected and maintained
Even though they are primarily man-made storm water basins, they do evolve and become living ecosystems like naturally occurring waterbodies. Aquatic vegetation begins to grow in all lakes eventually, and much like our lawns, require regular attention in order to avoid become overgrown. Exotic species such as hydrilla, hygrophila, and rotala grow quickly and can spread throughout acres of lake in a matter of months or less. Such infestations are not only unsightly, but all those weeds are filling up the lake and taking up space meant to hold stormwater runoff.
Floating weeds such as water lettuce and water hyacinth can rapidly cover a lake surface, clogging and even damaging weirs and other outflows. Excessive growth of vegetation near culverts and drain pipes can slow the flow of stormwater both into and out of the lake, causing backups of the system. The longer these plants are left to grow unmanaged, the harder the problem is to get under control and the longer it will take. Large scale infestations need to be treated in stages with regulated wait times between treatments. This is done in order to not deplete the dissolved oxygen in the whole lake. The other problem with established infestations is that the plants have had time to mature and grow extensive roots systems. These root systems allow the plants to re-grow quickly after initial treatments and quite frequently require multiple follow up treatments to bring under control. Even once treated, the herbicides take time to work and the plants take time to decompose and settle to the bottom. Unfortunately, tropical storm events do not wait until conditions are best suited to deal with the results.
The best way to make sure your community is protected is to be proactive and maintain your system regularly. Regular scheduled maintenance ensures that aquatic vegetation is kept at levels that don’t compromise your stormwater system and can potentially avoid costly repairs to its components.
Hurricane season corresponds with the time of year when these plants grow and spread the fastest due to the long, sunny days. We have learned that being prepared for hurricane season means taking precautions before the storm arrives. That wisdom should also definitely apply to
our first line of defense against flood damage in our communities.
Thank You to Colleen Sullivan for this Article.
Author: Stephen Montgomery / Senior Biologist
Allstate Resource Management   Members of SFPMA
– Over 25 years of experience in maintaining the health of lakes, ponds, wetlands, and stormwater systems. We have continued since our inception to be the leader in resource management. Our services include lake management, wetland management, stormwater inspections and maintenance, erosion control, fish stocking, native plantings, debris removal, water quality, aquatic pest control, and upland management.
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WHAT NOT TO PUT DOWN YOUR GARBAGE DISPOSALS by Ron Giles of PRS

WHAT NOT TO PUT DOWN YOUR GARBAGE DISPOSALS by Ron Giles of PRS

  • Posted: Jun 17, 2020
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WHAT NOT TO PUT DOWN YOUR GARBAGE DISPOSALS

by Ron Giles of PRS

After many uses, garbage disposal blades need sharping. Just a hand full of ice can do the job. Another tip is put the drain plug in the garbage disposal. Fill the kitchen sink full of water. Turn on the garbage disposal and pull the plug.

 

1. Grease or oil. Just because it is out of sight does not mean the garbage disposal “disposed” of it. Usually, it solidifies and begins to build up in your pipes. Not good.
2. Vegetable peels. You might get away with it from time to time, but odds are, eventually this one will catch up with you–and leave you a soupy backfilled mess in your sink. Garbage disposals do not do too many peels–they’ll spit them up like an unhappy infant.
3. Egg shells. Believe or not, the membrane on the inside of the egg can wrap around the blades and wreak havoc. Better just to compost them.
4. Coffee Grounds. These seem like they go down fine, but over time, the little grounds build up like sediment in the pipes, causing all sorts of trouble.
5. Pits or seeds. Think: peach pits, avocado pits, cherries, etc. I am sure this one goes without mentioning, but it will basically rattle around in there like a pinball of destruction.
6. Bones. I know, again, duh.
7. Anything in bulk. Feed your disposal small meals, let it grind it up, then add more.
8. Garbage. Think: cigarette butts or paper. It is not really designed for those sorts of things and will get testy.
9. Rice and pasta. I did not know this. Basically, every time you turn the water on, the pasta and rice will continue to expand–even after your supposedly ground it up.
10. Stringy veggies. Think: celery, artichokes, carrots, corn husks, or even some types of lettuce. The stringy parts can wrap around the blades, causing resistance on the blades.
11. Potato Peels. These suckers can cause a soupy mess in your disposal down the road—even if you think you can get away with dumping them down the drain from time to time. The same goes for other starchy vegetables and beans.
12. Harsh Chemicals. Do not mistake your kitchen sink for a chemistry laboratory. The grinding components of most garbage disposals are made of galvanized steel which can corrode when contacted with strong chemicals like bleaching powder and such cleaning agents.
13. Onion Skins. The onion skin can get caught in the blades, but the worst thing is the will cause clogs down the pipes.
14. Pumpkins. Anyone who carved a pumpkin for Halloween knows how sticky they are. When thrown down a garbage disposal though they are juicy and slimy they will stick on to the grinding blades and form a clog. The only way to get rid of a pumpkin clog is by dismantling the pipes and cleaning it.
15. Corn Husk. Corn husks are some of the most fibrous items you can find in a kitchen. They are extremely difficult to grind and should never ever end up in a disposal.
16. Seafood. While you may feel confident that seafood like shrimp can be disposed of safely in a garbage disposal that’s not the case. Instead of going down the pipes they will form a white little ball that will clog the disposal. No matter what magical remedies you try dismantling the pipes is the only option that will work.

 

 

 

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The Importance of Getting Permits For Additions and Improvements for your properties.

The Importance of Getting Permits For Additions and Improvements for your properties.

  • Posted: Jun 11, 2020
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The Importance of Getting Permits For Additions and Improvements

 

Getting Permits For Work at Your House is Vital

When you consider making improvements or additions to your home, it can be tempting to try and skirt the permit process. In some cities and towns, the cost and hassle of getting a permit can seem unnecessary, especially if you are handy and like to make renovations, or you have a friend who offers to do it for you.

Unfortunately, when you go and try to sell your home, the lack of permits can prove to be a real problem. Buyers may balk at purchasing a home that does not have permits – fearing that the additions may be unsafe or not properly done.

In the end, getting the property permits is always a good idea.

Often a home seller will say to me “I’m selling my home do I need permits for work I have done”? Unfortunately, the answer is usually yes you do.

 

The Temptation Of Avoiding Permits

The temptation to avoid getting a permit for home improvements is something every owner faces at one point or another. It is understandable, as the cost of home improvements and additions is already high in many cases.

The permit process – including the inspection to verify the work is up to standards – can seem like a pain. It may take some time to complete the process, time you may not feel like you have.

Those most tempted to avoid permits are homeowners that are interested in actually saving money by doing the work themselves, or bringing in a friend who has experience in home repair and renovation.

The friend – or inexpensive contractor you hire – may even imply that you do not need to worry about getting a permit. This, of course, is WRONG!

 

The Real Reason Why Most Don’t Pull Permits

The real reason that many homeowners don’t pull permits isn’t that of paying a few hundred bucks to the town hall or the inconvenience that comes with it. Nearly every city and town in America collects taxes bases upon the assessed value of a home. Assessed value is calculated by looking at the size and characteristics of property.

What is the gross living area? How many bedrooms does it have? How many bathrooms? These are all factors in determining an appropriate assessed value.

Guess what happens when the tax assessor knows about the luxurious new finished basement with home theater, wet bar, home gym and beautiful bath you just added. If you guessed your taxes are going up, then you are 100 percent correct.

When no permits have pulled the town most likely will not find out, and your taxes will not take the upward climb, they would have otherwise.

Homeowners can save thousands of dollars over the course of owning a home when permits are not pulled. When selling a home, this becomes very problematic. If and when the town or city finds out about it, the new owner is the one who will bear the brunt of the increased taxes paid.

This will often lead to disputing high property taxes. In the case where the town has not collected taxes in years, it may be harder to get a justified abatement.

 

The Problem With Not Getting Permits

When you go to sell your home, there will always be a home inspection and an appraisal conducted by certified professionals. This is just part of the selling process, and it helps buyers know what they are getting into before they buy the home.

The inspector and appraiser will likely go over your house with a fine-toothed comb, looking over every area to verify that the home is in good working order – sometimes even checking all public records on the home.

There are no requirements for the home inspector or appraiser to check on permits for improvements to the home, but this does not mean someone will not ask about them. The inspector, the appraiser, the buyer and the bank that is doing the lending, all have the ability to request public records from your home, which will include the permits that have been acquired for the home.

A good buyers agent should always ask if there were permits pulled when a significant addition or finished basement has been added. These types of improvements can have a significant impact financially for a new owner.

You can run into major problems when someone discovers that renovations were done to the home without permits. This can, in fact, stop a home sale. There is an especially high risk of getting found out if the improvements were made recently.

The appraiser can see what the house consisted of when you bought it, and will notice if there is not an extra bathroom, deck or finished basement. The bigger the addition or improvement to the home, the more likely that someone will notice that something is off.

 

Buyers Want Certified Work

Unless you are in an extremely tight housing market, where buyers are desperate and will take anything, you can expect people to be concerned with any improvements that do not have the proper permits.

A lack of permits implies several problems to potential buyers, including safety and quality issues.

 

Safety Concerns

Customers want to move into a safe home. They may be planning to start a family, or already have children. They may just be uneasy about any work that was not done by a certified professional.

Part of the permit process is intended to verify that the improvements to a home were made properly, according to regulations, by someone who knows what he or she is doing.

Knowing that all safety rules and standard building practices were observed gives buyers peace of mind. Another would be hiring the local handyman to do electrical wiring a licensed electrician should have done.

In some cases, it is even possible that you may not have insurance coverage if there was a major catastrophe like a fire. The perfect example is the owner who goes out and buys a wood stove for the fireplace and doesn’t bother to pull an installation permit with the fire department.

Good luck getting an insurance claim if the insurance company finds out there are no permits, and the stove was the cause of the fire.

 

Quality Concerns

Safety may be the first thing buyers think about when they see you lack permits, but questions about the quality of the work will come quickly after.

The fact that you do not have a permit makes buyers think that you were trying to cut corners. You may have hired someone that was not fully qualified to do the work, or you may have done the work yourself and not known what you were doing.

Whatever the truth is, buyers will suspect shoddy craftsmanship when there is a missing permit. No one wants to pour hundreds of thousands of dollars into a home with poorly crafted improvements.

A good example here is all the homeowners who had to deal with removing ice dams this past winter. There are a lot of negative things ice dams can do to a home including mold. In cases where mold is bad walls may need to be removed and rebuilt.

If it is bad enough, you may even need to relocate or replace the electrical wiring. Could a homeowner fix this themselves? I am sure many have. That doesn’t mean hiring a professional who pulls a permit for this kind of work is not the right way to go.

 

What Happens When I Don’t Have Building Permits

One of the questions I am often asked by homeowners when they are considering selling is what will happen if I don’t have a building permit for work done on my home. There is no clear cut and dry answer on this but in my experience, the local city or town will ask the homeowner to go through the permitting process.

The owner will, of course, have to pay all necessary fees involved with the construction. Each of the applicable inspectors will also need to come through and inspect the work.

Many homeowners are asking this question because they want to know if the town will make them rip out everything they have built and start from scratch. In my twenty-nice years of selling real estate I have not experienced this.

That, however, does not mean it is not possible. Homeowners should be very apologetic to the local building department when it has been discovered there are no permits pulled.

 

What Are Additional Risks of Not Pulling Permits

One of the other risks of not pulling permits is getting sued later on down the road by the buyer who purchases your home. Unfortunately, we live in a sue-happy society where people are always looking for someone to blame.

When you don’t pull a permit, and something tragic happens years down the road, who do you think they are going to come after?

In Massachusetts when selling a home, it is standard practice that homeowners fill out a form called the “sellers statement of property condition.” Lots of states use these forms.

They are primarily a disclosure of what the seller knows and doesn’t know about the home. One of the first questions on this form asks “have you done any work on the home in which a permit was required.” You better answer this one honestly folks for the reason above I just mentioned!

 

When Do I Need to Pull a Building Permit?

There is no clear cut and dry answer on when you will need to pull a building permit for an improvement to your home. The best way to find out is to pick up the phone and call the local building department or stop in for a face to face.

The building inspector should be able to quickly tell you if you will need a permit for your project or not.

It is safe to assume that anything safety related will require a permit. You can also expect that a permit will be necessary when you are doing something that will significantly alter your home.

One important reminder – When all the work has been completed don’t forget to have a final inspection and get the permit closed out! Over the years I have had several clients who have done the right thing and pulled a building permit but never closed it out once all the work was completed.

Closing out a permit is often called getting a certificate of occupancy. Recently while selling a home, I ran into this exact situation.

The owner pulled an original building permit but never asked for a final inspection, so the project was never filed as completed. Luckily, the building department did not make them do anything special other than getting a final inspection.

You could, however, find yourself in a situation where you are not so lucky if there are code changes between the time the permit is pulled and when you are selling your home. So make sure when the project is completed a final inspection is done, and certificate of occupancy is issued.

Here are some examples of items you will more than likely need a permit for:

  • A finished basement.
  • A bathroom remodel or adding a bathroom.
  • The addition of a deck.
  • The addition of a screened porch.
  • Changing or upgrading your electrical service.

These are just a few quick examples. There are many other items for which you will need to pull a permit.

 

 

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Most people do not give much thought to their pipes – until they stop working by Ronnie Giles of PRS

Most people do not give much thought to their pipes – until they stop working by Ronnie Giles of PRS

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